Heritage Textiles

49. Phulkari Embroidery: Gendered Co-operatives and Machine-Made Counterfeiting

Written by Aria Kenangan • July 2, 2026

Phulkari Embroidery

Structural Mechanics

Phulkari, the traditional embroidery style of Punjab protected under GI status, is characterized by dense, geometric darn-stitch embroidery using untwisted silk floss (Pat) on hand-spun, coarse cotton cloth (Khaddar). Historically practiced by women as a household art, Phulkari has been commercialized through gendered self-help groups (SHGs) and handloom cooperatives. The craft faces competition from cheap, machine-made printed duplicates, making strict GI protection and consumer awareness programs essential.

Data-Driven Metrics

  • Economic Livelihoods: Phulkari embroidery SHGs provide part-time and full-time income to thousands of rural women across Punjab’s agrarian districts.
  • Market Dilution: Machine-made, printed fabrics sold as authentic Phulkari dilute the market, selling at up to 70% lower prices than genuine hand-embroidered shawls.
  • Labor Input: A fully embroidered Phulkari shawl (Bagh) can require over 250,000 individual darn stitches, taking months of skilled hand-embroidery.

Strategic Vector

The Department of Cooperatives should establish direct-to-retail partnerships with national apparel brands to source only GI-certified Phulkari from registered women's cooperatives, ensuring fair wages.